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Frijoles de la Olla, Frugal Foodie XI

Frijoles

When I was growing up, beans were a way of life. They were not only at every meal but, I think, achieved cult status in my family. And that was a good thing! My mother had 10 mouths to feed on a very low budget. As I look back I think she must have been so relieved that we all liked beans so much, for if we hadn’t, it would have made life even more difficult for her. And to this day, when the kids come to visit, all we want is beans. Well, maybe, a little chili, too. And this dish was always always a treat.

Frijoles de la olla (beans from the pot) refers to beans that are freshly cooked. In my family beans were cooked twice a week. My mother cooked a big olla. We always had our beans refried as a side dish, ok, maybe a main dish, and with every meal. Except when she cooked a fresh pot. On that day, we all knew what was for dinner. Beans with their broth, simply salted, and sprinkled with diced red onion and cilantro. And tortillas. I don’t really understand the chemistry behind freshly cooked beans and reheated beans but there is a difference. When beans are freshly cooked, they are sweet and plump and succulent and just gorgeous!

Since my household consists of my daughter and myself, I make one small pot (about 2 cups dried) a week. Beans are not at every meal but we do eat a lot of bean and cheese burritos for lunch, and my daughter likes her frijoles de la olla with a fried egg and sprinkled with fresh oregano. Ok, I let her deviate from the tradition… This week is different. My fiancé arrives on Friday and I need to make sure there are enough cooked beans in the house! Normally I just cook my weekly beans with a couple of bay leaves. I like to keep the flavor simple since I never know what they might be accompanying. But today I decided to make him a pot of my festive beans! And I just couldn’t resist eating a bowl straight from the olla

Festive Beans:

  • Olla2 1/2 cups pinto beans
  • one yellow onion, peeled and quartered
  • 2 chipotles in adobo (they keep forever, open a tin, and store the unused amount in a glass jar in your refrigerator)
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 6 cups of water
  • finely chopped red onion
  • finely chopped fresh cilantro
  1. Rinse your beans.
  2. Place all ingredients in a pot, I prefer a clay pot.
  3. Bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer for about 2 hours. (Cooking time depends on the age of the beans, so make sure to keep an eye on them. One burnt bean can ruin the whole pot!)
  4. Give the occasional stir and make sure they always remain covered with about 2 inches of water.
  5. They are ready when soft. Salt to taste.
  6. Ladle into a bowl, sprinkle with onions and cilantro. Serve with warm tortillas.

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A Tender Heart Sweetens a World

Arti3

The artichoke
of delicate heart
erect
in its battle-dress, builds
its minimal cupola;
keeps stark
in its scallop of
scales.
Around it,
demoniac vegetables
bristle their thicknesses,
devise
tendrils and belfries,
the bulb's agitations;
while under the subsoil
the carrot
sleeps sound in its
rusty mustaches.
Runner and filaments
bleach in the vineyards,
whereon rise the vines.
The sedulous cabbage
arranges its petticoats;
oregano
sweetens a world;
and the artichoke
dulcetly there in a gardenplot,
armed for a skirmish,
goes proud
in its pomegranate
burnishes.
Till, on a day,
each by the other,
the artichoke moves
to its dream
of a market place
in the big willow
hoppers:
a battle formation.
Most warlike
of defilades-
with men
in the market stalls,
white shirts
in the soup-greens,
artichoke field marshals,
close-order conclaves,
commands, detonations,
and voices,
a crashing of crate staves.

And Maria
come down
with her hamper
to make trial
of an artichoke:
she reflects, she examines,
she candles them up to the light like an egg,
never flinching;
she bargains,
she tumbles her prize
in a market bag
among shoes and a
cabbage head,
a bottle of vinegar; is back
in her kitchen.
The artichoke drowns in a pot.

So you have it:
a vegetable, armed,
a profession
(call it an artichoke)
whose end
is millennial.
We taste of that sweetness,
dismembering scale after scale.
We eat of a halcyon paste:
it is green at the artichoke heart.

Ode to an Artichoke, Pablo Neruda


I am fortunate to live where I live for many reasons, one of which is my love of artichokes. I am 5 minutes away from artichoke fields.  Great big fields along the coast, and these fields are often the only thing that separate the road from the Pacific Ocean. Magical, really. Young artichokes, cleaned, and sliced into 3 or 4 pieces are delicious fried and dusted with a coarse salt. This is a real treat and one I’ve only experienced from homegrown artichokes (getting small specimens can be…challenging!) But more often than not I cook them in the old family way,  on a bed of fresh thyme. If you can get your hands on fresh artichokes, this method will result in soft tender hearts that coat your mouth with a particularly delicate and lingering sweetness that is unforgettable.

Sweet Artichokes

  • Artichokes, medium sized as you will want nice halves to cook.
  • Fresh thyme
  • Garlic
  • Olive oil
  • Coarse salt
  1. Arti1I like using a terracotta pot for this dish, so if you have one, use it!
  2. Line the bottom of the pot with a layer of fresh thyme
  3. Peel and slice fresh garlic, one to two cloves (depending on size and love of garlic…), and sprinkle over the thyme.
  4. Drizzle with olive oil.
  5. Prepare the artichoke by trimming away top, bottom, and outer leaves. When you get to the inner blanched part, cut in half. Once they are halved, you can cut away the top just above the choke. The choke is the ‘hairy’ bit between the heart and the inner purple leaves. Remove the choke, and you are ready! If you have never prepared an artichoke, look for videos on youtube. It really is quite simple… really! Remember, you want prepared artichoke halves.
  6. Place artichoke halves, face down, on the bed of thyme. Arti2
  7. Drizzle with more olive oil and add about 1/2 inch of water.
  8. Cover and cook over medium heat for about 25 minutes, or until tender.
  9. Carefully slide the artichokes, with thyme, onto a serving dish, and sprinkle with a good coarse salt.

This dish is great hot or cold,  as a side dish or on its own. You can’t go wrong!


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Be Still, My Beeting Heart

Chocolate Beet Cake

Chocolate Beet Cake

I am always on the lookout for a few things. Vintage ikats from Central Asia,  chocolate recipes, and new ways to get my daughter to eat vegetables (she is a real steak frites kind of kid). When I read Maria Verivaki’s recipe on chocalate beet muffins I was intrigued. Unlike Maria, I didn’t have to hide the beets from my daughter, she was very interested in the very redness of it all. After all, red is mommy’s favorite color. But, she is not so keen on nuts. Or, I should write she is very keen on peanuts, and putting them up her nose so deeply that expensive doctor visits are required… So, I hide nuts and not veggies in recipes!

The first cake I made had walnuts, following Maria’s recipe. They were detected and the cake refused. So, I tried again and altered the recipe. Maria’s recipe worked beautifully but, as always, I felt the need to change it up a bit! The addition of beets makes a beautifully deep brown cake that is incredibly moist and a little earthy tasting! And just in time for that dreaded Valentine’s Day….

Chocolate Beet Cake

The Cake:

  • 6 ounces unsalted butter
  • 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate
  • 1 1/2 cup sugar
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 cup beets, cooked and pureed
  • 1 1/4 cup all purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking power
  • a pinch of salt

The Glaze:

  • 1/2 cup whipping cream
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 5 ounces bittersweet chocolate
  • 1/4 cup confectionar’s sugar
  1. Preheat oven to 400º
  2. Prepare a 10″ pan, or the equivalent
  3. In a bowl, mix all the dry ingredients.
  4. In a large bowl placed over a pot of boiling water, melt the butter and chocolate. The bowl gets hot, so handle with with care!
  5. Once melted, remove from heat. Stir in the sugar.
  6. Add the eggs and then the beets and mix.
  7. Add the dry ingredients and thoroughly mix.
  8. Pour into your prepared baking pan and bake for 35 minutes, or until toothpick comes out clean.
  9. Let cool and turn out onto your serving dish.
  10. To make the glaze first scald the cream, then add the butter and chocolate. When the chocolate is melted, add the sugar and quickly stir. Let the glaze cool a bit before pouring over the cake.

Who said chocolate cake couldn’t be the slightest bit healthy?

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spicy melted bliss

a tuna melt

a tuna melt

I never manage to grow, and thus pickle, enough jalapeños. This year was no exception and I finally broke down and bought a giant tin of jalapeños en escabeche. Life is alright now. And after a late night and full morning of working, jalapeños have a special way of perking up the rest of the day.

A tuna melt. Or, a glorified grilled cheese sandwich. Tuna, cilantro, onion, capers, and lots of pickled jalapeños. Add barely enough mayonaisse to bind. Slice your favorite cheese and your favorite bread. You know what to do…

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A Green Winter Soup, Frugal Foodie X

my 10 minute soup

my 10 minute soup

A few days of sunshine after a week of rain created the perfect weed pulling opportunity. The ground was so saturated that weeds came out clean from the roots with the gentlest of tugs. The most prolific weed is the oxalis, the sour grass known and loved by children, with its bright yellow florescent flowers that really clash with just about everything. But more important than clashing colors is their very tallness. In the right conditions, they can grow very long stems and engulf  “proper” plants.  This weekend I liberated my one bed of winter greens from the suffocating yellow blooms,  and excavated a bed of Italian greens I planted from seed in the late fall. Suddenly, my garden became a treasure trove of greens! Mizuna, bok choi, Russian kale, Lacinato kale, frisee, mustard greens, radicchio Treviso, the beautifuly variegated radicchio Castelfranco, a few very small  puntarelles, and a two perfectly blanched pan di zuccheros. Yes, I love winter greens and chicories. Except for some of the chicories, most of the other greens are of the cut and come again variety. In fact, except for the puntarelle and the pan di zucchero, I treat the chicories as cut and come agains, too! Freshly harvested winter greens are fantastic alone but especially when you can just have a nibble from this plant and that one. And with a nice mix on hand, this is a perfect soup to make.

This is a very humble soup. Bread, garlic, olive oil, greens, and parmesan. If you want to add pancetta to the greens, go for it. Toasted pinenuts are also a great addition. I guess, this is a gardener’s soup. It taste best when a variety of greens are combined. I happened to have a jar of truffle paste given to me by my friend Franco, Mr. Exotic Edibles, which I added.

Green Winter Soup

  • Leafy winter greens, and lots of them. I filled a salad bowl and it served 3!
  • A good bread, I used a miche from Trader Joe’s
  • Olive oil
  • Garlic, 2 cloves peeled and chopped
  • Grated parmesan
  • Salt and pepper
  1. Thoroughly wash your greens, spin, and finely chop.
  2. In your largest sauté pan, heat some olive oil and gently cook your garlic.
  3. Add the greens and about a cup of water.
  4. They will cook quickly, with a gently stir once or twice. Salt and pepper as you like.
  5. Once perfectly wilted, turn off the heat. Do not drain! You will use the “broth.”
  6. While greens are cooking, thickly slice and start toasting the bread. (This happens to be a great soup to make on the open hearth) I usually make two slices of bread per person.
  7. When all the bread has been toasted, you can start assembling the soup.
  8. Place one piece of toast in each bowl, add some greens, repeat.
  9. I added a big dollop of truffle paste to the broth, gave a quick stir, and then poured the broth evenly in each bowl.
  10. Add the grated parmesan.
  11. Serve immediately!

Once the greens are washed and chopped, this is a very fast soup to make. This isn’t just a recipe for the Frugal Foodie but also one for the Busy Foodie!  It is hearty and satisfying, and a perfect meal with your favorite bottle of red wine. Some guests have even been known to  pour a little of their wine on top, but I never do…

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