Strawberry Jam, a la Russe

On my way to the Farmer’s Market today, I stopped to fill my tank of gas. I keep track of how often I fill it and soon discovered that the last time was 5 weeks ago! Perhaps a sad commentary and the geographic smallness of my world, or not!  No, I am not a hermit! I am out all the time but often on bike or pushing a stroller, a different set of wheels. My reward for being gentle on my pocketbook and the environment while doing a bit of exercise… a flat of Dirty Girl Produce Albion organic strawberries! The Albion strawberry is a smaller day-neutral variety with a long neck, a dark interior and exterior, and a consistently sweet balanced flavor. The price, $30/flat.

Next stop, grocery store for pectin but on the short trip from the Farmer’s Market to the store (3 minutes),  my daughter fell asleep in the car. Never, never wake a sleeping toddler and if toddler is sound asleep at 11:30 A.M., the kid must really be tired! Well, I got home, unpacked the strawberries, and was anxious to get the jam started! But, no pectin, no pectin… hmmm… Then, I remembered! The Russians have a preserving method for low pectin fruits. This method involves cooking the fruit over a long period, insuring a fruit that remains firm and does not lose it’s fresh flavor while allowing the pectin to slowly develop.

Strawberry Jam, a la Russe

• 5 pounds strawberries, washed and trimmed
• 6 pounds Demerra sugar
• 1 vanilla stick, sliced open lenghthwise

1. In a large preserving kettle, make a syrup by combining the sugar with 5 cups of water. Bring to a boil and maintain for 2 minutes. Turn heat off.
2. Add the strawberries and vanilla bean, stir gently and leave for 3-4 hours.
3. Slowly bring to a boil, turn the heat down, and simmer for 10 minutes.
4. Remove kettle from heat, skim, and set aside for 3 hours.
5. Repeat this step of bringing to boil, simmering, and setting aside one more time.
6. Finally, return to heat, slowly bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 20 minutes.
7. Fruit should be translucent but still a little firm to the touch.
8. Carefully and completely skim before filling sterilized jars.
9. Yields 16 1/2 pint jars

with homemade yogurt

It was a real pleasure making this jam mainly because there was no worry of burning or overcooking the fruit. The required short spurts of cooking time held my attention despite the presence of a very bouncy, twirly and demanding toddler on a rainy afternoon! Also, the house was permeated with the most delightful aroma of strawberries and vanilla. And the result? Well, the strawberries are perfectly poached and the syrup, because of the Demerra sugar, is an intense deep rich red color and flavor. The combination of the well balanced Albion strawberry with Demerra sugar and vanilla produced a rich complex study of sweetness, acidity, and depth. As for the consistency, well it is not a thick jam though the syrup does gently suspend the fruit. Perfect over yogurt or ice cream and in the Russian tradition, a spoonful is the perfect cure for any ailment.

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Classic Russian Cooking, Elena Molokhovets A Gift to Young Housewives by Joyce Toomre is a must.