my 10 minute soup

A few days of sunshine after a week of rain created the perfect weed pulling opportunity. The ground was so saturated that weeds came out clean from the roots with the gentlest of tugs. The most prolific weed is the oxalis, the sour grass known and loved by children, with its bright yellow florescent flowers that really clash with just about everything. But more important than clashing colors is their very tallness. In the right conditions, they can grow very long stems and engulf  “proper” plants.  This weekend I liberated my one bed of winter greens from the suffocating yellow blooms,  and excavated a bed of Italian greens I planted from seed in the late fall. Suddenly, my garden became a treasure trove of greens! Mizuna, bok choi, Russian kale, Lacinato kale, frisee, mustard greens, radicchio Treviso, the beautifuly variegated radicchio Castelfranco, a few very small  puntarelles, and a two perfectly blanched pan di zuccheros. Yes, I love winter greens and chicories. Except for some of the chicories, most of the other greens are of the cut and come again variety. In fact, except for the puntarelle and the pan di zucchero, I treat the chicories as cut and come agains, too! Freshly harvested winter greens are fantastic alone but especially when you can just have a nibble from this plant and that one. And with a nice mix on hand, this is a perfect soup to make.

This is a very humble soup. Bread, garlic, olive oil, greens, and parmesan. If you want to add pancetta to the greens, go for it. Toasted pinenuts are also a great addition. I guess, this is a gardener’s soup. It taste best when a variety of greens are combined. I happened to have a jar of truffle paste given to me by my friend Franco, Mr. Exotic Edibles, which I added.

Green Winter Soup

• Leafy winter greens, and lots of them. I filled a salad bowl and it served 3!
• A good bread, I used a miche from Trader Joe’s
• Olive oil
• Garlic, 2 cloves peeled and chopped
• Grated parmesan
• Salt and pepper

1. Thoroughly wash your greens, spin, and finely chop.
2. In your largest sauté pan, heat some olive oil and gently cook your garlic.
3. Add the greens and about a cup of water.
4. They will cook quickly, with a gently stir once or twice. Salt and pepper as you like.
5. Once perfectly wilted, turn off the heat. Do not drain! You will use the “broth.”
6. While greens are cooking, thickly slice and start toasting the bread. (This happens to be a great soup to make on the open hearth) I usually make two slices of bread per person.
7. When all the bread has been toasted, you can start assembling the soup.
8. Place one piece of toast in each bowl, add some greens, repeat.
   
9. I added a big dollop of truffle paste to the broth, gave a quick stir, and then poured the broth evenly in each bowl.
10. Add the grated parmesan.
11. Serve immediately!

Once the greens are washed and chopped, this is a very fast soup to make. This isn’t just a recipe for the Frugal Foodie but also one for the Busy Foodie!  It is hearty and satisfying, and a perfect meal with your favorite bottle of red wine. Some guests have even been known to  pour a little of their wine on top, but I never do…

Entomatada with Broccoli Rape

Everyone has a dish and this is mine. You know, the dish you can eat for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, middle of the night kind of dish. The dish you often eat alone, standing in the kitchen. The dish that never lets you down, can always be prepared  quickly, and always leaves you happy and satisfied. The dish you want to share with friends but don’t because it is so humble, so simple, so lacking in art or skill… And certainly the dish you make when you arrive at your home after traveling. And though the dish in your life doesn’t have to be defined by culture or a culinary tradition, it often is.  After all, the flavors must be deeply rooted in memory, taste, history, and psyche if it is to be your “dish.” Recently my friend Marlena came to visit and I knew, I felt deeply, that if anyone could appreciate my dish, it would be Marlena… And a one pan meal, ready in 3 minutes? What could be better?

Entomatadas

• 

  Humblest of ingredients...

  Corn tortillas

• Eggs
  
• El Pato Sauce (it is spicy)
  
• Olive oil
  
• Salt
• Variants or additions: refried beans, greens, huitlacoche, queso casera, sauteed hibiscus blossoms…

This is a one pan meal, unless you wish to make some additions. In that scenario, cook or reheat your filling. One reason I like this dish so very much is because it is so easy to customize it based on my mood, or hunger! And, if cooking for others, special requests are not a concern. This is essentially a layered dish, so built it as high as you like. You choose for a light meal perhaps two tortillas, one egg, and a layer of beans. Or more tortillas, eggs, and different additions. Entirely up to you! This dish is built on the plate in which it is served, of course. If making for more than one person, I suggest making them simultaneously. Keeps both, or more, warm and you can sit and enjoy together, of course.

1. Heat pan. Drizzle some El Pato sauce onto your plate. Heat tortilla, you can add a bit of oil if you like. When tortilla is hot, place on your plate.
2. If you have an addition (greens, beans, etc…), place over the warm tortilla. Now your egg, your choice of  how you cook it, I like mine pretty runny. When cooked to your satisfaction, place over plated tortilla.
3. Repeat! Finish with more sauce and a dash of salt. Yes, that easy.

A clean plate must mean she liked it!

Harley Goat Farm. Pescadero, CA.

The combination of flavors and textures, it’s simplicity, it’s instantness, makes this my current favorite dessert. And cooking is barely required, yes barely. I do think roasting some apricot kernals, almonds, or pinenuts constitutes as “barely.” So, start with fresh ricotta cheese, sprinkle it with roasted nuts, sultanas, and diced candied fruit. Drizzle with spiced honey and don’t be shy, this requires a generous amount of honey. Voila! This might very well be my new comfort food…

Harley Farm Ricotta

The mussel season has ended. A dinner to honor the Scrabble playing frugal forager…

~ Salad with mixed greens and herbs from the garden

~ Pasta with mussels, parsley, bread crumbs and Meyer lemon zest

~Blood orange sorbet with chocolate chips and brandy

The Kinks, Low Budget

Harvesting mussels, West Cliff Drive

Starfish...

After a few days of cleansing

variety of sizes, all good

croutons for breadcrumbs

salad, freshly harvested

A good game of Scrabble...

Bonny Doon, 2007 Metamorphosis, I, Aurora

dinner for the frugal foodie

The other day my daughter said, “Mama, we have too many lemons, no more” as we were harvesting from the neighbors 3 prolific Meyer lemon trees. I was surprised that she, of all people, was setting limits on her dear old Mama. When we returned home she helped me make a couple more jars of preserved lemons to add to the collection. We now have bottles of Limoncello and jars of preserved lemons, lemon chutney, and Meyer lemon with jasmine tea marmalade.

What more? Well, a couple of nights ago I made a syrup and set aside the peels. I was not certain what I would make with the peels but I had so many, I didn’t want to toss them in the compost. The syrup is a fantastic way to process a lot of lemons as it is fast, easy, and keeps well. I have been enjoying quiet time on my deck with a book and a glass of sparkly limonata. As for the peels, well, I was always curious about the Roman method of preserving in honey…

Lemon Syrup

1. Lemons
2. Sugar
3. Lemon zest

• Wash lemons, cut in half, and juice. If you plan on using the peels, be careful not to press too hard and break apart the peel
• This is the ratio: 1 cup lemon juice, zest of one lemon, 2 cups sugar.
• Combine all ingredients in a saucepan, bring to a boil or until sugar dissolves.
• Remove from heat, and pour into sterile container.
• When cool, pour into clean glass bottles or jars.

Lemon Peel, Roman style

1. Lemon peels
2. Honey

• After juicing lemons, reserve peels
• Place all peels in a bowl and fill with water
• Leave overnight, but remember to change the water at least once
• In the morning, pour water out
• With a grapefruit spoon (with a serrated edge), carefully remove the membrane and as much of the white pith and discard. Soaking overnight softens the lemon and makes it really easy to remove all unwanted bits,
• Continue with the rest of the lemon halves.
• Cut lemon peel as you fancy, in strips, triangles, coursely… as you wish
• Place in a sauce pan, cover with water and bring to a boil, reduce heat and gently cook for about 20 minutes or until soft.
• Strain and let peels cool.
• Gather your clean jars and start with a layer of honey.
• Start filling jars by layering lemon peels and honey until the jar is full, ending with a layer of honey.
• Make sure not to overpack with lemon peels! You should have a ratio of 1:1.
• Make sure to remove all air bubbles.

The lemon syrup is delicious over sparkly water or in ice tea. A sprig of mint takes it to an entirely different level and I’m wondering how it would taste with alcohol… The lemon peels are really good as is, my daughter ate several as we were packing the jars. They can also be chopped and eaten with ice cream, scones, and on toast.

Enjoy!

Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina, “Yes, We have no Bananas“

This is the era of the Buy Local, Buy Fresh movement but when it comes to fruit, I believe, the banana is the one exception. Bananas are such a quick and easy snack that even those without teeth can enjoy. I don’t know of a family with children that doesn’t consider the banana a staple food. Short of moving to Ecuador or Africa, the only way to enjoy a banana is by quickly and discretely turning a blind eye to all Buy Local signs at the grocery store. Bananas are easily transportable and can be harvested when green, they will ripen en route or in your kitchen. One must never worry about what to do with the green banana, but the brown banana is another story. An overripe banana is certainly an acquired taste, and one that few people have. We have all experienced the brown banana and lately the guilt of throwing away something that traveled so far, and with a very dark carbon footprint, is just too much to bear! The only thing to do with brown bananas is make banana bread!

I prefer to make individual breads, my daughter knows where they are kept and can help herself. They keep nicely and travel well since there is no interior exposed side.

Banana Bread

1. 2 ripe bananas
2. 2/3 cup sugar
3. 1/3 cup melted butter
4. 2 eggs
5. Zest of one orange
6. A pinch of salt
7. 1 teaspoon baking powder
8. 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
9. 1/2 sliced almonds

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees
• Combine in a large bowl bananas, sugar, butter, and eggs. Mix well
• Add orange zest, salt, and baking powder and mix
• Add the flour 1/2 cup at a time, mixing continuously until all the flour has been added
• Stir in the almonds
• Grease either a loaf pan or individual cake forms
• Bake for 30 minutes or until tops are lightly browned

Dust with powdered sugar, if you like. These make a great tea, park, or lunch bag snack.

Enjoy!

I believe in simple pleasures. There is nothing more satisfying, rewarding, and economical as growing fresh herbs. An herb garden is the easiest of gardens to have and the most productive in relation to the time it takes to plant. An herb garden can be part of your landscaping, have its own bed, be grown in pots on a deck or patio, and even in a window box. Herbs take little room but add magic in the kitchen. Freshly cut herbs can liven the dullest of dishes and when dry, they add a different dimension and depth to any dish.

Living in California, I have the luxury of fresh herbs from the garden year round. Every so often I harvest thyme, rosemary, oregano, and lavender. With an abundance of freshly cut herbs in the kitchen, I set out to make infusions. Yes, infusions. Salt and sugar infused with fresh herbs are a basic pantry item in my kitchen.  I like to keep jars on hand of rosemary salt, thyme salt, lavender sugar. And while I am making fresh batches of herbed salts and sugars, I also make a jar of vanilla sugar. Fresh vanilla beans can be bought at any market but I prefer the ones from the health food store that are sold in bulk and not in jars, they are always fresher.  These are a wonderful addition to vegetables, meats, and baking. And, when in a pinch, I can quickly jar them up for a quick home made  gift.

Rosemary Salt and Thyme Salt

1. Kosher salt
2. Rrosemary and thyme, finely chopped
3. Clean dry jar

• When making the salts, for every two cups of salt add 1/4 cup finely chopped herb.
• Add salt to the jar, then the herb, and continue until the jar is full.
• Tighten the lid and shake well.
• Keep in a dry place for about a month before using.

Lavender Sugar

1. Sugar, and since this is a time to economize, I used regular C & H
2. Dried lavender
3. Cheesecloth & kitchen string
4. Clean dry jar

• Cut cheesecloth into 6″ squares, you will need two layers per pouch
• Place dried lavender on center of square, lift corners, and tie with kitchen string
• Fill your jar a quarter of the way with sugar, place a lavender pouch, and continue until jar is full.
• Tighten the lid and keep in a dry place for about a month.

Vanilla Sugar

1. Fresh vanilla beans
2. Sugar
3. Clean dry jar

• This is so easy to do and yet, I am always surprised more people don’t do it! Especially those who like to cook.
• Fill your jar with the sugar and the beans. Voila!
• Tighten the lid and keep in a dry place.
• It is ready when the sugar turns brown.

I love Winter. Cold days and nights, rain, green leafy vegetables at the Farmer’s Market… Perfect time for making Poulet Vert, the green chicken of Gascony. Poulet Vert is a stuffed cabbage and at heart a peasant’s dish, a dish of necessity and lean times. The ingredients are all basic staples but when combined create a delightfully hearty and satisfying dish. A perfect comforting meal to share with friends on a cold Winter night.

Poulet Vert

1. One Savoy cabbage
2. One medium yellow onion
3. Two cloves of garlic
4. Three stalks of celery, with leaves
5. Two tablespoons butter
6. Two leeks
7. Three carrots
8. 1/2 pound of mild pork sausage, casing removed
9. 1 1/2 cups stale bread, in small cubes
10. Sage, thyme, and parsely

• Place whole cabbage in a pot and cover with water 3/4 of the way
• Cook for 20 minutes
• Meanwhile in saute pan, slowly cook finely diced onion in the butter. When translucent add chopped garlic and cook for a few minutes.  Wash and trim the celery and one carrot. Celery should be finely sliced and carrot cut into small cubes.
• When vegetables are cooked, add the sausage, chopped herbs, and stale bread. Cook thoroughly and set aside to cool.
• When cabbage is cooked, gently remove from pot, making sure to drain broth from cabbage to pot. Set aside to cool.
• Wash and trim the leeks and remaining two carrots. Both can be sliced. Add to broth with a teaspoon of salt.
• When cabbage is cool enough to handle, gently separate the leaves from the top until you get to the heart. Remove the heart, this will create the cavity for your stuffing.
• Place cook stuffing in a bowl, add a teaspoon of salt, and bind with one egg. Mix thoroughly.
• When stuffing is ready, spoon into the cabbage.
• Gently place the stuffed cabbage into the broth and cook for 25 minutes.
• When ready, turn of the heat and let cool for a few minutes.
• Carefully slide out cabbage into a large serving bowl and pour broth over it.
• Cut in four and spoon into dishes.

Enjoy.

Squeeze, Pulling Mussels (From the Shell)  

Foraging appeals to me on a primordial level, the gathering of sustenance in the wild is an activity that I find deeply satisfying.  By nature I consider myself an urbanite but even I find something utterly magical about centering my meal around wild food.  I am fortunate to live in Santa Cruz, CA, a city nestled between the ocean and redwoods. Foraging is almost a year round activity! Mushroom season ends and mussel season begins.

The first step is getting a fishing license. In California the cost is $41.20 for anyone over 16 years of ago with the allowance of 10 pounds per person per day. Officially the season begins November 1 and ends April 30, but always look for postings by the Department of Fish and Game for updates. The next step is buying a bucket and trowel. License, bucket, and trowel is all anyone needs, no special skill set is required! There are many excellent mussel shoals within a 15 minute drive from my house. I prefer to go to the beach with the easiest access as I am often with my daughter. Being outside, in the fresh air, with the sound of the crashing waves, the smell of the ocean, watching my daughter play in the sand while I gather food for dinner… Heavenly!

The mussels on the California coast, Mytilus californicus, have an orange flesh, grow quite large, and can be very sandy. My daughter prefers the smaller ones, for obvious reasons, and will devour as many as I place before her! I recommend leaving them in cold water overnight in a cornmeal bath. This will help clean them a bit but you may have to do a little more prep work before serving. Always scrub the mussels clean, pull away as much of the beard as possible, and discard any mussels that do not open when cooked.

Mussels in a Pie

1. One package of store bought puff pastry.
2. Mussels
3. Potatoes, carrots, celery, onion, and garlic
4. Butter
5. Parsley
6. Flour
7. Salt

• Remove pastry from freezer
• Preheat oven to 425 degrees
• Place scrubbed mussels in a pot, cover with water and cook for about ten minutes. (You will need about one cup of mussels, so guesstimate how many mussels to cook!)
• Chop half an onion and garlic. Start sauteeing slowly in one tablespoon of butter. When onion and garlic are soft and clear, add one cup of sliced celery and cook until soft.
• When the mussels are cooked, remove from the pot and cool.
• Add potatoes and carrots to the mussel broth, cook vegetables until done.
• Meanwhile, pull mussels from their shell, pull away the beard, and gently massage each one under cool running water (this will further remove the sand). Large mussels can be cut in half or thirds. Your goal is to have a cup of cooked mussels.
• Sprinkle one tablespoon flour over the onion/celery mix and slowly add some of the broth until a sauce forms. Add the mussels, potatoes, and carrots. Adjust with more broth to suit your taste.
• Add 1/4 cup chopped parsley and 1 teaspoon salt. Mix thoroughly.
• Butter your pie dish, place one sheet of pastry on the bottom, fill with mixture, place second sheet of pastry on top.
• Finish by coating with an egg wash.
• Bake for 25 minutes or until nicely browned.

I like to serve this dish with green beans and radicchio. The radicchio provides a nice balance to the sweet and succulent pie!

Enjoy!