A few years ago I was in Paris in July. I was loathe to go but business called. Business was completed in a few days, and then my holiday began. After a week of trying to do all the things I normally like to do, but couldn’t because of all the crowds, I hopped on the TGV for Lyon. I had never been to Lyon but always wanted to. After all, Lyon is the home of the historic French textile industry and the food, well, the food. I loved Lyon. From my hotel on the River Saone, I could see across to the Presqu’ile, walk to the daily market and get the most incredible selection of goat cheese from Marc, and the most divine peaches from Claude! And the pièce de résistance? Lyon’s Musee des Tissus et Musee des Arts Decoratif and the self guided tours of the silk weavers’ quarters. Heaven.
One day, while walking along the Saone I came across a very fancy sandwich board with the words “Journées Européennes du Patrimonie” and “Degustation de Cuisines Anciennes” and “Archéo-Culinaires.” Very curious, indeed. Naturally I made note of the restaurant, Commanderie des Antonins, and made a promise to return that night. What a place! Cool candlelight vaulted ceilings, it looked like the basement to some old church, and probably once was. There was an element of austerity and longevity, it was very romantic. And the food? Not the typical Lyonnaise fare and it wasn’t until that moment that I realized how absolutely starved I was for a simple meal! The meal was très simple. An apéritif, grilled steak, roasted poatatoes, trompettes de la mort, and a cheese plate. Vin ordinaire.
The apéritif was the most perfect thing. After a hot day doing some very serious sight seeing, Lyon has a phenomenal Musée des Beaux Arts, a glass of the cool basil infused Sancerre was just what I needed. Here is the recipe, a bit late but if you can still get some fresh basil, make some. For it is a light fresh and sweetly scented reminder of summer, and I think, still appropriate for the fall!
Last Gasp of Summer Apéritif
One bottle of Sancerre- 1 bunch of basil, washed
- 1/3 cup of sugar
In a clean glass container, add the Sancerre and the sugar. Remove basil leaves from the stems, and add to wine. Store in refrigerator for 3 days. Shake now and again. Strain. Serve chilled. Et, voila!
I was very pleased to read about your adventure in Lyon! It sure spoke to my heart and brought back some memories! Next time, i say we go together, what do you say?
Ah la Commanderie des Antonins! I used to go there often for une entree et un dessert! Just thinking of their food makes me salivate!